Besides
the Tour de France, every four years France holds a 1200 kilometer bicycle
race that goes from Paris to Brest and back to Paris (commonly known as "PBP").
This race first took place in 1891 and it is the oldest cycling event
still being run. The same year that the race began, a pastry chef along
the bicycle route decided to make a celebration cake called Paris-Brest
(pronounced pah-ree-brehst), to honor the race. It consisted of a circle
of choux pastry, filled with whipped cream, that was meant to resemble a
bicycle wheel.
To make a Paris Brest you begin with a large ring of choux pastry.
Choux pastry or p?e ?
choux is a pastry where the flour is added
to a boiled mixture of butter and water (like a roux) and then this
mixture is cooked
until it forms a smooth ball of dough. The dough is then placed in
your mixer and beaten until
lukewarm. Beaten eggs are slowly added to the dough and you continue
beating until you have a
smooth shiny thick paste. This paste in then placed in a pastry bag and piped in
a large ring shape. The pastry is brushed with an egg wash, sprinkled
with shaved almonds and baked. It is first baked at a high temperature
so the pastry will rise quickly (leaving a hollow center) and to set the
structure of the Paris Brest. Then the temperature is reduced and it is
baked further to allow
the outside of the shell to become firm, while at the same time allowing
the inside of the pastry to dry out. I like to cut a small slit into
the side of the pastry at the end of baking to make sure
it has dried out sufficiently, because if the
inside dough is still very wet, the choux pastry will deflate upon cooling. But
don't worry if the shell still has a small
amount of moist dough as this can simply
be removed before filling the Paris Brest with cream.
Once the Paris Brest has cooled, it is cut in half horizontally and filled with
lightly sweetened whipped cream. The cream can be plain or flavored. For this recipe I
have simply used softly whipped cream but you could use one of the
flavored whipped creams on the
site. During berry season I often add a few raspberries or cut up
strawberries to the cream. The finishing touch is to dust the top of the
pastry with powdered (confectioners or icing) sugar. In order to keep the shell crisp, fill with
the cream shortly before serving. If you prefer a softer shell, assemble the
Paris Brest a few hours before serving.
Just cover and place in the refrigerator until serving time.
Preheat
oven to 400 degrees F (205 degrees C) and place the rack in the center of the oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Draw
an eight inch (20 cm) circle on the parchment paper to use as a guide when
piping the choux pastry.
In a bowl sift
together the flour, sugar and salt. Set aside.
Place the
butter, milk, and water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Remove
from heat and, with a wooden spoon, quickly stir in the flour mixture. Return to heat and
stir constantly until the dough comes away from the sides of
the pan and forms a thick smooth ball (about 3 to 4 minutes). Transfer the
dough to your
electric mixer, or with a hand mixer, and beat on low speed a
minute or two to release the steam from the dough. Once the dough is
lukewarm, start adding the lightly beaten eggs, in small additions, and continue to mix until you have
a smooth thick shiny paste. (Note: To test to see if the dough is the right
consistency; pinch off about a teaspoon of the dough. Then with your thumb and
index finger slowly pull the dough apart. The dough should stretch, not break.
If it breaks, beat in a little more egg.)
Transfer the dough
to a large piping bag fitted with a large plain tip (#4). Pipe a 1 inch (2.54
cm) thick ring of dough just inside the 8 inch (20 cm) circle that is drawn on
the parchment paper. Pipe another 1 inch (2.54 cm) thick ring inside the first
ring, making sure the rings of dough are touching. Pipe a final ring of dough on
top, along the center seam between the first two rings of dough. Then, with
moistened fingertips, gently smooth the rings of dough. In a small cup, beat together
the egg and salt for the glaze. With a pastry brush, gently brush the
glaze on the top and sides of the dough. Sprinkle with the shaved almonds.
Bake for 15
minutes and then reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (177 degrees C). Bake
for a further 35 to 45 minutes or until the Paris Brest is a golden brown color,
puffed, and crisp. Turn the oven off and, with the oven door
slightly ajar, let the shell dry out for about 30 minutes. Remove from oven and
finish cooling on a wire rack.
For whipped cream:
In a large mixing bowl place the whipping cream, vanilla extract, and sugar and stir
to combine. Cover and chill the bowl and whisk in the
refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. When chilled, whip the
mixture until soft peaks form.
To Assemble: Split the
pastry shell in half horizontally and remove any wet pieces of
dough. Then spoon (or pipe) the whipped cream into the hollow center
of the shell. Place the top half of the pastry shell on the whipped cream and dust
with powdered (confectioners or icing) sugar.
Makes one large 8
inch (20 cm) Paris Brest.
Sources:
Longbotham, Lori. 'Luscious
Creamy Desserts'. Chronicle Books. San Francisco: 2008.
Maree, Aaron. 'Patisserie'.
Angus & Robertson. New York: 1994.
Yard, Sherry. 'The
Secrets of Baking'. Houghton Mifflin Company. New York: 2003.
Choux Pastry:
1 cup (135 grams) all purpose
flour or bread flour
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