think the most famous dessert made with a roulade
(sponge cake) is the Buche de Noel (BOOSH duh noh-EHL) or Yule Log. Although there are
many desserts attached to the Christmas season (fruit cakes, mince pies,
shortbreads, gingerbreads, stollen, panforte) nothing seems more festive
than this sponge cake decorated with meringue mushrooms. The best account I could find of its history comes from
Bo Friberg in his 'The Professional Pastry Chef' where he tells us that it was a
tradition, dating from pre-Christian times, to honor the
God Thor and celebrate the winter solstice with the building of a bonfire.
As Christmas came to replace the Winter Solstice celebrations, France carried on the tradition for a 'yule'
log by cutting down a tree each year and then placing it in the fireplace so the
heat from the log could be used to prepare the Christmas Eve midnight supper.
The ashes from this 'yule' log were believed to hold magical and medicinal powers
that would ward off the evil spirits in the coming year. Another tradition
was started when new homes were built without fireplaces so they could not burn
a real 'yule' log. The story goes that an innovative French pastry chef (in the
late 1800s) came up with the idea of replacing the real 'yule' log with a cake
that was log shaped.
Now, while you may be able to buy a beautiful Buche de Noel
in France, here in North America we must content ourselves with making it at
home.
Although the original Yule Log was filled and frosted with a
rich chocolate buttercream textured to
look like tree bark, today there many variations to this theme.
Personally, I like to use this light and moist chocolate sponge and then fill it
with a chocolate whipped cream. While the Yule Log can simply be garnished
with just a dusting of icing sugar (to replicate snow), it is very pretty
decorated with meringue mushrooms.
Chocolate Sponge Cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (180
degrees C) and place the oven rack in the center of the oven. Butter, or spray
with Pam, a 17 inch (43 cm) by 12 inch (30 cm) jelly roll pan. Line the pan
with parchment paper and then butter and flour the paper (or spray with Baker's
Joy). Set aside.
While the eggs are still cold,
separate the eggs, placing the whites in one bowl and the yolks in another.
Cover with plastic wrap and bring to room temperature before using (takes about
30 minutes).
Meanwhile melt the chocolate in a
stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water. Set aside.
In the bowl of your electric mixer
(or with a hand mixer) place the
egg yolks and 1/4 cup (50 grams) of sugar and beat until this mixture is light
and fluffy (about five minutes). (When you slowly raise the beaters, the
batter will fall back into the bowl in a slow ribbon.) Beat in the vanilla
extract. Add the melted chocolate and beat only to
combine. Set aside while you beat the egg whites.
In a clean mixing bowl, with the
whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar
and beat at medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the
remaining 2 tablespoons (28 grams) of sugar until stiff peaks form.
Gently
fold a small amount of the egg
whites into the egg yolk mixture using a rubber spatula or whisk to lighten the
batter. Fold in the remaining whites just until incorporated. Don't over mix or
the batter will deflate. Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan with
an offset spatula. Bake until the cake is puffed, has lost its shine, and
springs back when gently pressed, about 15-17 minutes. Remove from oven and
place on wire rack to cool. Cover the cake with a clean, slightly damp towel.
Chocolate Whipped Cream:In a large mixing bowl place the whipping cream,
vanilla extract, sugar, and
cocoa powder and stir to combine. Cover and chill the bowl and
beaters in the refrigerator for at least one hour so the cocoa powder has time
to dissolve. Beat the mixture until stiff peaks form.
Once the cake has cooled,
spread with the chocolate whipped cream (set 2 tablespoons aside) and then
gently roll the cake, peeling off the parchment paper as you roll. The
sponge cake will crack, and, in fact, this makes it look more like a real log.
Trim one end of the cake at an angle and set it aside. Then place the
sponge cake, seam side down, on your serving platter. Take the slice of
reserved cake and, using the reserved whipped cream, attach it to the side of
the sponge cake (to look like the end of a branch). Cover with plastic
wrap and chill until serving time. Just before serving remove the cake
from the refrigerator, dust with confectioners (powdered or icing) sugar (to
resemble snow), and decorate with meringue mushrooms (if desired). You can
also decorate the Yule Log with miniature pine cones and pine needles.
Adapted from
The Cake Bible
by Rose Levy Beranbaum
Chocolate Sponge Cake:
1/4 cup (50 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (28 grams)
granulated white
sugar
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